Ladakh was on our bucket list for quite some time, and finally July 2025 took us to one of the most enchanting destinations that I could have ever dreamt of. With a lot of curated planning and guidance from our daughter, and her network of friends in the Indian Army, we chalked out a perfect itinerary to cover the length and breadth of this exotic Union Territory, which was formed as recently as 2019. Packing for this trip was quite challenging, as we had to be prepared for all seasons. More importantly, we had to be mindful of our medicines, prepare for high altitude terrain with medicines like Diamox to avoid acute mountain sickness and carry potions of sunscreen due to likelihood of high UV ray exposure.
Finally, on a fine summer morning, we found ourselves aboard our flight to Leh, from New Delhi. The jaw dropping changing landscape from above, as we were approaching the capital of Leh, literally left me spell bound. Just before our landing, the pilot announced that the windows would have to be pulled down and no pictures were allowed while landing, being a highly sensitive and strategically located part of India, sharing international borders with Pakistan and China. As we stepped out from our aircraft, I took a deep, long breath, pausing for a moment, to soak it all in. The air was clearly different here. It felt crisp and light. We had landed on this amazing runway surrounded by huge barren mountains that looked quite different from any other hills or mountains I have seen earlier. For a moment it felt like another planet.

The tiny airport was warm, welcoming, colourful and vibrant. We were warmly greeted by our Driver who would be with us for the next nine days. Soon we drove to the Army Guest House at Leh, where we would be staying for the next 2 days. Day 1 is always a mandatory rest day for any traveller to Leh, as it allows the body to adjust to the rarefied atmosphere and thereby gives time and rest for acclimatization. We were more than happy to have this rest day in such a pristine and quiet place surrounded by the majestic mountains on all sides. Hydration is a key part in the process of acclimatization and we made sure to drink adequate quantities of warm water through the day. Warm, home style food was served to us through the day, and we were pampered to no end.

By evening we felt much rested and relaxed. We decided to go to Shanti Stupa and spend some time there. The view from the place was stunning and we had a bird’s eyeview of the city of Leh from there. We took a leisurely walk all around and mostly sat and watched a breathtaking sunset as the dipping sun created a surreal display of shadows upon the barren mountains. Day 1 was clearly well done. On our way back we decided to make a quick stop at Saigon Café owned by Nurboo, and was highly recommended by our daughter. It was a delight to get introduced to Nurboo, and we chatted over coffee, promising to return for his signature dishes. As we returned to the Army Cantt, we couldn’t help but notice the night sky, as though we had stepped into a magnificent planetorium. For a star gazer this is the best treat that one could have ask for, as I racked my brains trying to identify constellations. Gently we fell asleep as we felt closer to the blanket of stars above our roof.

The next day was bright and beautiful, devoted to the city of Leh and some neighbouring areas which were in our itinerary. We started our morning exploring the Leh Palace with it’sunique architecture and of course, the magnificent view from the top. We then went out of the main city to explore some highlights of this region. The first one was a stop at the Gurudwara, Shri Pathar Sahib on the Leh Kargil Road. Apparently, around 1517, a notorious demon wanted to kill the meditating Guru Nanak. However, the rock became soft instead, leaving an impression of the demon’s foot on Guru Nanak’s body. The entire shrine is built around this boulder.

We then went on to experience the famous Magnetic Hill known for it’s anti gravity effects. Whether it was an illusion or a phenomenon baffling science , we enjoyed the moments of seeing our vehicle going uphill in neutral gear! Thereafter we proceeded to the Zanskar view point, and witnessed some of the most fascinating landscapes to be seen.

On our way back we made a stopover at the Spituk monastery. The serene atmosphere, the stillness and the silence was so profound that every breath felt truly gratifying. As we returned towards the cantonment, our last stop for the day was at the Hall of Fame . Built in the memory of the soldiers who had sacrificed their lives in the Indo-Pak wars, it was a poignant reminder of how the armed forces were fiercely guarding our territories just so that we could be safe. An entire section is devoted to the Siachen Glacier, the world’s highest battlefield, and the harsh conditions of temperatures often below -50 degree centigrade during peak winters. In silence we moved around , trying to grasp the hard realities of the battlefields in high altitudes. From arms and ammunitions, to letters and poems, this place truly gave us the goosebumps. Another day in paradise came to an end. But not yet, as we were invited for a sumptuous dinner at Nurboo’s Saigon Café. With his signature dishes of delectable Mutton Ribs and Vietnamese Pho on the Menu , this evening couldn’t have gotten better with some amazing friends in faraway lands, to add to the aura of our special evening.


The next morning we were moving to the village of Hunder in Nubra Valley. A distance of about 4-5 hours from Leh, this picturesque road took us through the second highest motorable Pass in the world , Khardung La. What a breathtaking drive it was. By this time our bodies had got acclimatized to the rarified atmosphere. Pollution was a far cry and AQI could possibly be below 10. Though we were passing through peaks which had snow, the sun was bright and burning. Again this was due to the unfiltered UV rays. We stopped at Khardung La for a quick photograph, while we also saw the country’s highest ATM by SBI. These are little reminders of how we take life for granted in the cities, whereas in these places mostly without network, this ATM remains a lifeline for the people living around.

As we entered Nubra valley we passed through Diksit Monastery and very soon we saw the famous sand dunes of Nubra valley. We were awestruck by the mesmerizing , breathtaking beauty of the barren landscape that unfolded before us. We happened to arrive at Hunder on their annual village festival day which was apparently a big event for the entire village. Our host at Nubra, a retired Major in the Indian Army, asked us to stop over at the festival venue. Very soon we found ourselves with the village elders and administration and were entertained to a host of musical and dance programmes while being served with local delicacies on a platter. We walked around the place, watched the camels resting in arid desert and then checked into our resort the Himalaya Eco Resort. The location and the whole resort complex was a surreal, dreamy destination. As the evening turned into dusk, once again the blanket of a starry night spread across the dark sky. With zero pollution levels, the air felt thin, but crisp, and we felt we were living in another world away from all the chaos and the noise.

That very evening the commanding unit of army officers came to meet us and hosted a dinner for us. Truly, we were greatly honoured as they showed us so much love and respect, making us feel extra special. With great food, deep conversations, loads of laughter and soft music under the starry night with a bonfire to keep us warm, this was truly memorable evening. We wished the unit all the best as they were moving to Siachen glacier in 2 days time. Apparently , the toughest army posting is supposed to at the Siachen glacier.


The next morning we were set to travel to India’s last village, Turtuk & Thang. Through barren mountains and endless straight roads of the Shyok Valley , we were heading towards the Pakistan border or the LoC, where we start seeing a mixed population including the Balti communities, an ethnic group of Tibetan descent. These populations are quite distinguishable from the largely Tibetan Buddhist people by way of their sharp features, distinct cuisine and language which largely has Arabic and Persian influence. Prior to 1971, this region was under Pakistan, but thereafter , on the fateful night of 17th December, 1971, the Indo- Pak war created the Line of Control which integrated these parts with India. Families were torn apart, though they could see each other from a distance, the manmade imaginary lines often decide the fate of people who seem to be no way interested in the political battles fought over invisible boundaries. While nature bountifully grows on both sides and agricultural fields appear to extend infinitely, animals graze freely, birds, butterflies and the breeze all appear to sync in unision defining our beautiful planet. We had lunch at a small, delightful café in Turtuk by the stream , while in Than, I struck a conversation with an old man whose family had remained on the other side on that fateful night. Now, he has to take a two day journey via Delhi and apply for his visa before he can reach his family who is hardly a kilometer or two away. Such is fate, when you surrender to situations beyond your control. As we returned back to Hunder with mixed feelings, we took a moment to pause by the Shyok River, in the backdrop of the vast desert like landscape and the bare looming mountains beyond.


The following day we were headed for Pso Pangong. We had only heard about its timeless beauty and had a glimpe of it in the iconic Amir Khan & Kareena Kapoor movie, The 3 Idiots. With open hearts we were ready to embrace it all. Our first hindrance however was that we were supposed to cross the Shyok river at a particular point which was supposed to take us through the shorter route to Pangong. We had got a green signal from our Army Major friend at Hunder that the road was fine, and vehicles were able to cross the river. Apparently, the water levels of the river can rise at any time, and drivers often use their “gut feeling” to decide whether to venture into the surging waters and safely go to the other side! This road is usually a one way route.However, as we were almost approaching the crossing point, we saw a tourist vehicle returning from the opposite side, and the driver was waving his arms wildly, indicating to our driver that the river was already in spate and vehicles can’t cross it. So we would have to turn around and take the alternate much longer route through Wari la and Shiva village to reach Pangong. So we turned back, and now it was our driver’s turn to wave his arms at all onward vehicles to give up the idea of crossing the river! That’s how things work in far flung lands where mobile phone signals are rare and communication still is through traditional methods!
But none the less, it was certainly God’s plan to make us go through the high pass of Wari La and into the magical mountainous region of a land which seemed to be out of a fairy tale. Yaks and mountain sheep were grazing on these high lands. The noisy world that we had left behind a few days back seemed so very far away. We could might as well be on another planet! The winding roads through these picturesque landscapes were truly enthralling. The music in our vehicle was playing ‘Ei Deewane Dil, chal Kahin door nikal jaye’, from the old movie Doosra Aadmi, starring Rishi Kapoor and Rakhee, as I drifted into another world altogether.


And then, our driver told us, that we are approaching the priceless gem of the world, and we should be seeing the first azure blue glimpse in between two mountains at the next bend. Just like a piece of blue zircon stone, we saw the first view of Pso Pangong. I caught my breath momentaririly, as I had never seen nature in such an unusually beautiful creation.The deep blue colour of the lake was a mixture of azure, turquoise, teal and royal blue. The shadows of the sun and the stark mountains behind the lake created a multitude of magical colours and shades, while the waters were calm and relatively still.


India holds around 30% of the Lake whereas most of it falls within Chinese territory. In such a terrain it is often difficult to understand the arbitrary demarcations of international borders, but none the less, the challenges faced by our brave soldiers in such difficult, dangerous and precarious regions deserves to be saluted. Meanwhile , as we crossed various villages to finally reach our resort, we did have to cross a few rivulets which were gathering spate as evening was approaching. Rangjon Resort in Merak village is a quiet eco-friendly retreat with a panoramic view of the lake. The glass roof wooden cottages were just perfect for our kind of stay, as we got the feel of sleeping under a blanket of stars.

As we spent precious moments by the lake we were accompanied by our furry friend who spent an entire evening with us exploring the interesting spots in the area. The serene experience, the calm views and the stillness and beauty of the surrounding kept us captivated. The food at the resort was homely, warm and welcoming. Pso Pangong will be a memory forever etched in my mind.

Next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we headed towards Hanle. On the way, we did stop at some photoshoot points with props from the movie 3 Idiots, and I had my ‘Kareena Kapoor’ moment, sitting on the yellow scooty by the lake. Our next stop was the Rezang La War Memorial. This memorial at 16,000 feet is dedicated to the 13th Kumaon Regiment and its sacrifices under Major Shaitan Singh in the 1962 Sino Indian War. It stands as a silent and defiant testimony amidst these high altitude rugged location , a poignant reminder of the indomitable spirit of the Indian Army.

The road to Hanle is like travelling to the moon. The desert like terrain across vast, majestic landscapes, surrounded by mountains of all colours , left us in awe. The hues of the backdrop ranged from pink, to maroon, to brown, grey, blue and green. There were some colours which we couldn’t even name.

We finally reached our place of stay which was again in the army cantonment of Hanle. On a little hillock, overlooking the Hanle Monastry and the Hanle Observatory, we settled ourselves for viewing the Night Sky from one of the World’s darkest Sky Reserves. The oxygen in the atmosphere was thin,and we were having a saturation of about 84% on the pulse oximeter. I was comfortable and did not feel the need of taking oxygen, though we had a cylinder in hand. As night approached our eyes started getting accustomed to the darkness and the glittering stars. We saw some of familiar constellations like Orion, the Great Bear and planets like Jupiter. We were asked to fix gaze towards the South Eastern horizon to see the Milky way. As dramatic as it could get, the sky showed a hue initially like a cloudy patch and gradually as midnight approached , the cosmic saga appeared before us like never before. Millions of stars burst out across the heavenly Milky Way, and I felt like a speck in the Universe. Yet I knew that I was a still a significant part of the whole. Moments like these can be life changing and truly humbling. And for me, this one precious moment was a milestone. Ladakh trip felt absolutely fulfilling and my heart was full.

The next morning we would be heading back to Leh, through some magnificent terrains once again.

One of the highlights of this return route was Pso Moriri. Unlike Pso Pangong, this is a less touristy spot and the the deep blue colour of the lake stood out against the backdrop of the white mountains. What is heaven, what is earth, here we are, heaven on earth.

Back in Leh , we needed one more day to rest, rejuvenate and make a last visit to two of the most famous monesteries of this region. The first visit was to Hemis monastery which is situated along the west bank of the Indus River. This serene space for the spiritual seeker is the ultimate epitome of peace. The Annual Hemis Monastery festival had just got over a day back , and the remains of the festivities were quite visible. One of the young monks took us all around explaining the significance of the different areas of the Monastery. We then went to Thiksey Monastery. This is one of the largest Monasteries of Central Ladakh. After this ,we had a quick stop at Shey monastery and then headed back towards Leh. The last day in Leh was truly a day of reflection and being more than grateful for being able to witness the magnificent and majestic beauty of this place first hand. I had a few moments to explore the Leh market and pick up a few trinkets and souvenirs and that completed our journey.

Our hearts are full as we embark on our return journey. Another chapter of my life scripted well. I am ever grateful to Lord Almighty for this incredible opportunity which made me see a part of the world so carefully preserved and hidden. The land of High Passes has truly lived up to its reputation. Thank you Universe.
Will I visit Ladakh again? Absolutely, I would love to, if an opportunity comes by. Nurboo has promised to show me the snow leopards on my next visit. I would love to experience once again, the blissfulness of Hanle’s surreal night sky under the celestial , shimmering Milky Way. Ladakh is one of the few destinations that makes you feel so closely aligned to the cosmos, and yet leaves you with a sense of awe and wonder of God’s own creation and a deep sense of belonging to the Universe.
Finally, my heartfelt gratitude to the Indian Army for their unparalleled, unmatched hospitality and care at every step, making us feel safe and secure, while ensuring we could extract the best from this visit. A salute to them for their unwavering fortitude and for all that they do to keep our borders safe under the harshest of conditions.


The words scripted here sums it all and were in memory of the bravehearts of Rezang La for the 114 martyrs of the 13 Kumaon Regimen who fought to the last man against hordes of Chinese invaders on 18th November 1962. Their indomitable spirit and invincible courage will forever echo in the Himalayas of Ladakh.
























































